seasonal challenge - spring 17 - style arc lara jane top

the challenge: dcf seasonal challenge spring 17 - lara and i started the dcf seasonal challenge a year or two ago – we normally buy  a couple of metres of the same fabric from darn cheap fabrics each season, and each make a garment.  we then reveal it on our blogs on the same day.  it’s just a fun thing that we started when we realised how often we buy and sew the same fabrics (often from darn cheap).

however, early during spring 17 style arc patterns released their lara jane dress (and top) pattern, named after lara - the most fantastic style arc ambassador.  i suggested to lara that this challenge we both make up the lara jane using whatever fabric we liked. so this season we are doing a special 'seasonal challenge' instead. 

the fabric: a beautifully bright patterned silk from the fabric store.

the pattern: style arc lara jane dress.  i like both the dress and top versions in the pattern, but I decided to go with the top first as i think it will get lots of wear.  it was also handy to make up the top first to check the general fit before making the dress.

sizing: my measurements put me in size 10 for bust and between size 10 and 12 for waist and hips.  i normally make a size 10 or 12 in style arc patterns.  in writing this a few weeks after i finished the top i can't quite remember why, but i decided to make a straight size 10.  the fit is excellent around the bust and good around the hips.  i could potentially do with slightly more ease around the hips, which would be easy to fix next time.

alterations: none.  however for the first time ever i did check the height of the bust dart before i started, as i had just finished my first grainline willow tank which required the dart to be raised.  given i didn't make a muslin i thought it best to check the height, but it was perfect so no alterations were required.

the sewing: i rarely sew with silk, but when i saw this brightly patterned silk i decided i would like to challenge myself.  the silk felt reasonably stable and not too slippery when i was scoping out fabric options so i decided to give it a go.

i had no problems cutting the silk using my rotary cutter and the sewing thankfully was mostly straight forward.  the fabric was a little fiddly when making the sleeve ruffles and bias bindings but apart from that it behaved very well and was mostly a pleasure to sew.  this experience has made me keen to try more silk fabrics.

in terms of the instructions they are minimal (note: the pattern is rated 'medium'), but mostly straight forward. the one area i ran into a bit of trouble with was sewing on the arm ruffles.  the instructions are written for the version with sleeves so there is not really any specific written info if you are making the sleeveless version.

after confirming with lara what she did, i used the upper notch on the armhole as the place to sew the ruffle on to.  the main problem is the instructions don't give any detail about at what angle / how much of the ruffle edge you need to attach to the armhole.  on my first attempt i sewed one on too much and one not enough so i unpicked and re sewed them both.  though in doing this my ruffle placement on the armhole slipped down a bit so my ruffles at the front are probably an inch or so below where they should be - but that doesn't cause any problems.

the verdict: i love this top! i love the fabric, the fit and and the overall look.  i am sure i will get lots of wear from it this spring and summer and beyond, as down the track if i like i will be able to remove the ruffles and keep a lovely simple silk tank.

now to check out lara's post - i am very keen to see her lara jane!

til next time,
emma

ps thanks for all your comments on my last post, i've kept the vest for next winter :)

darn cheap fabrics seasonal challenge winter 17 - style arc estelle ponte jacket

the challenge: dcf seasonal challenge winter 17 - lara and i started the dcf seasonal challenge a year or two ago – we buy  a couple of metres of the same fabric from darn cheap fabrics each season, and each make a garment.  we then reveal it on our blogs on the same day (or a day apart this season!).  it’s just a fun thing that we started when we realised how often we buy and sew the same fabrics (often from darn cheap).

the fabric: double sided scuba/knit, navy scuba and light marle grey knit

the pattern: style arc estelle ponte jacket.  when we agreed on the fabric i wasn't quite sure what i would make.  then i went to a party and one of the guests was wearing a double sided waterfall cardi vest which i really liked.  i googled looking for pattern options and decided on making a sleeveless version of the estelle ponte jacket.

sizing: my measurements put me in size 10 for bust and between size 10 and 12 for waist and hips.  i normally make a size 10 or 12 in style arc knit patterns, the chosen size usually relates to the extent of stretch in my chosen fabric.  given the style of this jacket with excess fabric i decided to make a 10 and am happy with the overall fit.

alterations: none - apart from not using the sleeves and also making a fabric tie belt.

the sewing: making this a vest instead of a jacket with the edges left raw made this a very easy make.  the centre back and shoulder seams are flat felled.  i hadn't looked at the sewing instructions before i cut the fabric and when i saw flat felled seams in the instructions i was a bit worried that my fabric would be too think to do this neatly but it all worked out ok.

the verdict: in comparing my finished item to the pattern line drawings you will notice that my version does not really resemble the line drawings.  i quickly realised during construction of the jacket that the thickness of the fabric did not allow for a flowing waterfall - see second last pic above.  to compensate i made a tie belt (read: i cut a long rectangle of fabric, and left the edges raw).  in using the belt i can create a waterfall type look.  

i really do like the look i achieve with the belt and the fabric is toasty warm so i love wearing the vest...around the house.  the thing is i am not really keen on wearing clothes that have to be re-adjusted regularly, so unfortunately as much as i do like the vest, it is unlikely to get much wear.  if you have any suggestions on a) how I could make the look i get with the tie belt permanent or b) other pattern ideas i could reuse the fabric for, please leave them in the comments!

now i need to check out lara's post.

til next time,
emma

darn cheap fabrics seasonal challenge - autumn 17 megan nielsen brumby skirt (and bonus stylearc candice skirt)

its dcf seasonal challenge time again - autumn 2017.  we are posting this just into winter due to my slack photo taking, but we both had our challenge items made well in autumn.  excitingly we sewed them up together when we were at sewjourn in april - see below for some pics.

the fabric we chose is a fabulously fun fishy light weight linen.  i was initially thinking a pinny, but once i got the fabric i decided to make the megan nielsen brumby skirt due to the lighter weight. 

i have made the brumby skirt once before, you can check out my previous post here.  i made the medium again which is a nice fit, but this time i added 3" to the length as my first version is a bit short for work.  looking at the photos here though i'm not sure if its just a tad long now! i think i might take it up an inch or so.

i put a lapped zip in this version (i used an invisible zip on my previous version). i hadn't used a lapped zip for quite some time so i basted it in a took my time and am happy with how it turned out.

there's not a lot more to say about the construction of this skirt, than i said in my previous post, but this version is fun and i'm sure i'll get a lot of wear out of it. the best bit about this skirt though is that i made it on the same sewing weekend lara sewed up her challenge item, it was great to get the chance to sew IRL together and have a few drinks too:)

we had a great fun weekend with anna (who snapped this fab photo of lara and i at drinks o'clock) and leith and i'm already looking forward to the next sewjourn and the next dcf challenge! btw the skirt i am wearing in the pic above is stylearc candice skirt in size 12, i love the box pleats and its a great fit.  the fabric is a stretch sateen mr f bought back for me from britex on one of his work trips.

usually after i press publish on my post i rush to check out lara's post to see what she made.  this time i can tell you its fab and you should definitely hop over for a look.

emma

*Lara and I started the DCF Seasonal Challenge a year or two ago – we buy  a couple of metres of the same fabric from Darn Cheap Fabrics each season, and each make a garment.  We then reveal it on our blogs on the same day.  It’s just a fun thing that we started when we realised how often we buy and sew the same fabrics (often from Darn Cheap).

darn cheap fabrics seasonal challenge - summer 16/17 made by rae gemma tank

summer in sydney has not been very pleasant this year, mostly either revoltingly hot or raining.  on the plus side i am very happy with my darn cheap fabrics seasonal challenge summer 16/17 make, a made by rae gemma tank.

this time lara and i chose the fabric using instagram.  when darn cheap posted a photo of embroidered cottons in 2 colourways, orange and red, i tagged lara and asked if she wanted to use the fabric for our challenge. we agreed to go with orange, which was actually a hard choice for me as i really liked them both.

i have been wanting to make a woven tank for some time and thought the fabric would be great for this purpose.

i was tossing up between the grainline willow tank and the made by rae gemma tank.  i like both styles for different reasons but in the end decided to go with the gemma tank for its shirtail hem and that it comes with front pattern pieces in 2 cup sizes A/B or C/D.

i made up the small size which pretty much correlates with my measurements and used the A/B cup size front piece.  the fit is fantastic and the bust darts are very well placed on me.

 i used a white cotton voile under the embroidered cotton as it is see through.  i tossed up whether to go for a loose lining free at the hem or to use the voile as an under lining.  i decided to go with the underlining and fasten the voile and embroidered cotton together at the hem and am happy with how this worked out.

the tank has very simple construction,but the instructions are clear and well laid out if you need them.  the instructions suggest making your own bias binding for the neck and arm holes, but i bought some pre-made cotton binding making this a very quick make.

unfortunately i only made this up late in summer so it hasn't had lots of wear yet, but it is very comfortable and would have come in very handy on those many 40+ days we had this summer.  i am keen to make up many more woven tanks next summer and even considering using silk, which i hardly ever sew with.  this pattern would be a great start to sewing with silk and doesn't take much fabric either keeping costs down.

i did get a chance to wear the tank out to some wineries on the bellarine peninsula for my sister's 40th birthday on the weekend.  the weather was great and this top is perfect for winery hopping on a sunny day.

as always i am very keen to check out lara's make, i am wondering if she has made a dress or a top? I'm guessing a dress, but you never know!

* Lara and I started the DCF Seasonal Challenge a year or two ago – we buy  a couple of metres of the same fabric from Darn Cheap Fabrics each season, and each make a garment.  We then reveal it on our blogs on the same day.  It’s just a fun thing that we started when we realised how often we buy and sew the same fabrics (often from Darn Cheap).